Surrounded by a classic crenellated wall, Óbidos’ gorgeous historic centre is a labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and flower-bedecked, whitewashed houses livened up with dashes of vivid yellow and blue paint. It’s a delightful place to pass an afternoon, but there are plenty of reasons to stay overnight, as there's excellent accommodation, including a hilltop castle now converted into one of Portugal’s most luxurious pousadas.

Hill-town aficionados looking to savour Óbidos’ ‘lost in time’ qualities may find the main street ridiculously touristy, especially on weekends and during festivals. There are pretty bits outside the walls too.

The main gate, Porta da Vila, leads directly into the main street, Rua Direita, lined with chocolate and sour cherry–liqueur shops, but the joy of Óbidos is wandering among its nooks and crannies within; and along its imposing wall above.